Gucci celebrates 100 years with Michele’s ‘Aria’ assortment
MILAN (AP) — Gucci inventive director Alessandro Michele is celebrating the style home’s a centesimal anniversary this yr, giving historic sweep to a group unveiled nearly Thursday that embraced its equestrian heritage, borrowed references from the Tom Ford-era and outright stole from the French model Balenciaga.
“Gucci was born below some sort of constellation, as a result of the ability it holds is almost inexplicable,’’ Michele instructed a video press convention.
The celebration celebration was set in a film-set model of London’s Savoy Resort, the place vogue home founder Guccio Gucci bought inspiration to return residence to Florence and open his personal leather-based items store, specializing in journey baggage that he had admired working as a bellhop.
The gathering was titled “Aria,” a reference to a different Italian creation, lyric opera. Fashions walked down lengthy hall runways outfitted with a whole lot of flashing cameras nailed to the wall within the place of absent paparazzi. A medley of Gucci-themed pop songs — proof, if wanted, of the model’s enduring relevance — offered the soundtrack.
The primary look was a jag on Tom Ford’s 1996 purple velvet swimsuit, with a kinky leather-based harness over a powder blue shirt. Michele mentioned in notes that he had “plundered” the “sexual rigidity” of Ford’s decade at Gucci from 1994-2004.
“Tom understood proper from the start that Gucci had some sort of magnetism, this cult energy,” Michele mentioned.
Michele, who took over as inventive course of Gucci six years in the past, put a fetishized spin on Gucci’s trademark equestrian references, together with using caps, fringed leather-based using crops and spit-polished boots combined with glamorous sequined night put on, or subverted with erotic sheer attire of logo-emblazoned netting. Fashions dangled lengthy jewellery from their noses.
In one of many assortment’s most shocking turns, Michele borrowed, or hacked, appears to be like immediately from Balenciaga, the Paris vogue home owned by the identical mother or father firm, Kering. They included a model of the Balenciaga Jackie bag and a glittery silver swimsuit emblazoned with each Gucci and Balenciaga.
This was the primary assortment of 2021 for Gucci, which has left the style calendar and dedicated to solely presenting two collections a yr. The video presentation caught strictly to the runway format throughout a pandemic yr of experimentation that has all however shut down in-person reveals.
Reflecting on the century marker, Michele mentioned Gucci’s magic is its capacity to redefine itself over time, unbeholden to any strictly outlined picture.
“I’m making an attempt to resume for the millionth time this model, this title, this fantasy, this saga, as a result of Gucci is a posh container that holds many, many issues,” Michele mentioned.